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COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. 



How To Handle Hats 



By G. H. WOODROW 



THE ONLY WORK PUBLISHED ON THIS SUBJECT 



An up-lo-date book giving information regarding the 

HANDLING 
RENOVATING 
SELLING 
TALKI NG 
CLEANING 
SHAPING 
IRONING and 
BLOCKING 

HATS 



Publiihed by 

G. H. WOODROW & COMPANY 

32 BROADWAY :: :: NEW YORK. N. Y. 









LIBRARY of OCNGRESS 
Two OoDies rtecavMi 

APR 6 iy05 

Guis It A\C Not 
COPY S/ 






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Copytlzhi 1905 W. H. WOOD 



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This book is written in such language, that 
the man who knows little or nothing of the hat 
business can thoroughly understand the terms used 
and instructions given; and for this reason I ask 
the indulgence of the experienced hatman when he 
reads the explanations which to his experienced 
knowledge may seem superfluous. 

The claims for this book are: 

First — It gives the most complete and compre- 
hensive description of modern hat making that has 
ever been issued in book form; and 

Second — It gives more valuable points about 
hats; how to get the best results; how to make an 
old hat look like new, etc.. etc.. than has ever been 
published before. 

Third — Ancient History has all been left nut. It 
gives what the man of to-day desires to know, viz., 
What is doing to-day, and what to do to-morrow. 

Times and conditions change in this progressive 
century, and all methods heretofore described in 
various publications regarding the manufacture and 
making over of hats are as obsolete to-day as a 
wooden warship. 

In this little treatise I have not thought it best 
to use a large flow of words to describe the various 
operations — and by that means extend it to large 
proportions — but have endeavored to so condense 
the instruction and information given to tit 
the requirements of a time-saving age; at the same 
time not sacrificing clearness and accuracy to that 
of brevity. 

Should you desire any point explained or wish 
further information write the author. 
3 



How to Handle Hats. 



HOW SILK HATS ARE MADE. 

Muslin is cut up into lenj^ths of about seven 
feet and immersed in "water stiffening," com- 
pose. 1 of shellac, and stretched on frames to dry. 

The muslin used on the brim is heavier than 
that used on the 
crown, and is 
framed four ply ; 
one piece being 
put on the frame 
at a time, then the 
whole is patted 
and rubbed until 
they all stick to- 
gether. Medium 
and one ply side crown pieces are cut bias, brim 
and tip are cut in squares. 

The piece for the side crown is cut bias to fit 

the block, and the edges are stuck together with 

a hot iron, and the block inserted ; as the block 

is larger at the tip. than in the band where the 

5 




MEDIUM IJELL. FIVE-EIGHTHS. 
IVORSAY CURL, MEDIUM SET. 




b.at fits, it is made in five pieces and used as fol- 
lows : First, the 
two ends are in- 
serted, then the 
sides, and the cen- 
ter piece last ; the 
center piece is lar- 
ger at the bottom 
than at the top, 
the other pieces 
HAT IRON ON SHELL. are laro-er at the 

top than at the bottom. 

There is a maro-in at the top of the side crown 
piece wdiich is ironed over on the tip ; the first 
ply of the top is now put on — which is a piece 
similar to that of the side — and ironed to the side 
piece ; a heavier piece is then laid on and ironed 
to the first; a square piece of the desired size is 
then cut from the material with which to make a 
brim, the center of which is cut out. 

The inner edge is softened and the piece is 
pulled over the crown down to the brimboard ; 
the crown and the brim are now joined together 
by ironing, being still further strengthened by 
ironing a piece of ribbon (stiffened muslin) over 
the seam, after which the brim is ironed flat ; 
small pieces of stiffened muslin are ironed on to 
the front and rear of the upper brim to strength- 
6 



en it, then the brim is rounded to the required 
width. 

The side crown is varnished and a piece of un- 
stiffened, unbiased musHn is ironed to the first 
ply; the whole crown is now varnished and two 
pieces of plain muslin are laid together on the 
top and ironed fast, after wdiich the whole body 
is varnished and dried, receiving two additional 
coats of varnish. 

The plush is cut into three pieces biased for the 
side crown and upper brim, and oval for the tip ; 
fhe merino for the under brim is cut square ; the 
side crown and the tip are sewn together, leav- 
ing an opening at the side crown ; this is termed 
the cover. The body, cover, upper and under 
brim are now ready ; the finisher takes it and 
irons on the underbrim, then trims off the sur- 
plus merino at the edges. 

The plush is fastened on the upper brim by 
wetting it with a sponge, and brushing and iron- 
ing it ; the cover is drawn over the body, and 
the place of the seam marked. It is then laid on 
the bench and the nap brushed back from one 
side to prevent it being cut, as it has to be used 
later in the operations to hide the seam. 

The plush is cut with a long pair of shears, at 
the marked place, and the cover is re-drawn over 
the body ; the tip and the right side of the seam 
stuck with the hot iron ; the left side has a long 



nap covering the edge, and when it is skillfully 
put together, it completely hides the seam ; it is 
stuck by applying the nose of the iron to the edge 
of the seam. 

The plush is now moistened with a wet sponge 
and the nap brushed straight and ironed dry, af- 
ter whicli it is again moistened with the sponge, 
brushed out and allowed to dry ; then it is ironed 
and put in a revolving machine, which is so ad- 
justed as to put the hat in contact with a velure ; 
this gives it a finish and brings the tip to a good 
center. 

As previously explained, for the convenience 
of handling, the block is made in five pieces ; the 
expansion and contraction of the points neces- 
sarily leave their impressions on the hat, which 
to remove is taken from the block, and on the 
poutance and half block is ironed until it is even 
and the marks disappear. 

A sheet of tissue paper — called a cap — is now 
fastened around it, and the "curler" takes and 
curls the brim by hand with shackle and iron ; 
then places it on a hot baker, until the brim is 
soft, then sets it on the setting board. 

The trimming of silk hats is somewhat similar 
to the operation on the derbys. 

If the hats are to be satin lined, or "Stuck lin- 
ing," the satin is put on the block at the first 
8 



operation of making the body ; otherwise the silk 
inserted linings are made by the trimmer and 
put in. 

TO IRON SILK HATS. 

To iron or block a silk hat you should have a 
poutance and half block (see cut from Mast & 
Co.), and tip block, half round iron toliker, vel- 
vet lure and brush. 

Take the hat to be ironed in your left hand 
and with a brim brush tap the edge of the curl 
and brush upper brim, always drawing one way, 
tapping the outside and brushing the inside until 
}'ou have all the dust out ; also tap and brush the 
sides and top ; having screw^ed the poutance arm 
to counter or bench, and half block put on, turn 
out the sw^eat leather of the hat, and put it on the 
block ; brush it well with a stiff brush, and then 
the lure, drawing towards you all the time. Stand 
a little to the right of the poutance, hold the 
brim of the hat in your left hand, and begin iron- 
ing at the square where the tip and crow^n join, 
covering a space of about four inches long and 
two inches wide, drawling towards you ; it takes 
several strokes of the iron to do this ; while the 
place you have been ironing is still hot, take the 
half round iron toliker and draw tow^ards you 
firmly several times, then repeatedly stroke it 
over in the same wav with the lure. 
9 



Go all around the hat in this manner and then 
commence below and go aroimd again until you 
reach the band ; then take the hat from the half 




m 



•OUTANCE WITH HALF BLOCK. 



BRIM IRON. 

block, turn in the sweat leather, put the hat on 

the tip block, brush over with the stiff brush, 

then the soft brush to smooth it : hold the hat 

10 



with the left hand so that the place where you 
want to iron will fit the block, then moving the 
iron with a circular movement, iron at first about 
one-fourth of the tip at one time, then duck-bill 
toliker to set it, then take the lure, and liold it on 
the top, turning the hat with your left hand on 
the brim to the right, the way of the nap. 




STIFF BRUSH. 

Straighten the nap on the upper brim, and 
with a hot brim iron apply it to the upper brim, 
drawing towards you, holding the hat by the 
brim in }'our left hand ; finish by ironing the 
square of the hat while holding it in your hand ; 
then go over the sides with the lure, drawing 
gently towards you. 

In case you have marked the binding or band, 
touching either or both with the iron, take a wet 
sponge and touch it on the iron, then touch the 
band or binding, and the mark will disappear. 

In the case of the hat being mashed it will have 
to be ironed several times over, on the mashed 
part, until it is smooth. 

To renovate greasv silk hats put about two 
11 



tablespoonfuls of liquid ammonia in a tumbler 
of hot water, mop the greasy places with the so- 
lution with a sponge, until the spots disappear ; 
then go over the hat with plenty of clean, warm 
water ; then with a stiff brush, brush the nap out 
straio;ht and drv, then iron. 



RUFFLED SILK HAT. 

In case a silk hat is nmch ruffled and the nap 
matted down by being carried in a hat box or 
otherwise, first brush out the dust, then go over 
it with a wet sponge, drawing it towards you the 




r.KlM BRUSH. 

way of the nap ; then with a brush straighten the 
nap, after which dry it on the cleaning machine, 
or in a warm place ; when dry, brush nap out 
and iron. 

SILK HAT POLISH. 

Dissolve one ounce of Parafine wax in four 
ounces of benzine. To use this, have a small hat 
lure like those thev give awav with silk hats, 
"^12 



moisten the lure well with the solution and go 
all over the hat. crown and brim, drawing the 
lure in the same direction as the nap. 

This plan will sometimes act as a substitute 
for ironing- where the hat is not broken ; it is 
quickly done. 

This process is good for new hats in stock 
when the nap has become wavy. 

Be careful not to use too much of the fluid. 

Put it on the hat cleaning machine and polish 
with a cloth, as with derbys. 



TO PUT OX MOURNING BANDS. 

To put on the mourning bands which are fast- 
ened by a clasp is simple ; vou need only follow 
the directions on the box. 

The broadcloth mourning band which is 
seamed, requires a little more care : take the num- 
ber, one, two or three, as indicated on the box, 
then take the band in both hands and put it over 
the tip and work it down to the band, drawing 
it with a circular movement around the crown 
and going graduall}' downwards until you reach 
the brim, having the seam to the left side, on 
same side the bow is. Then smooth the hat over 
with the lure. 



i;3 



REMOVING GREASE SPOTS. 

For removing little spots of stiffening on stiff 
hats have a bottle of alcohol with a small piece 
of a sponge at the end of the cork ; touch the 
place with alcohol, rub it with your finger nail 
or the end of a file, then wash the place with the 
cork wet with alcohol. 

For greasy bindings, rub them with a woolen 
rag wet with benzine. 



THE OPERA HAT. 

The opera hat in many respects is like a silk 
one, as the brim and tip are made of similar ma- 
terials, viz., muslin stiffened with shellac. 

It has a frame consisting of two steel rings, 
four springs, and four upright ribs hinged in 
the center; this is the arrangen^ent tliat makes it 
possible to open and close it. 

It is generally covered and lined with black 
corded silk. 

It requires an expert to fix one of these hats 
when anything is broken, but if the brim gets 
out of shape, which is frequently the case, it can 
be properly adjusted by heating it until soft and 
working it with the fingers, or on a setting board, 
which is simply a thick board formed to fit the 
underside of a derby, silk, or opera hat; use the 
foot tolicker like conforming. 
14 



If the silk is badly creased b}' being closed for 
a considerable time, open, and dampen it all over 
with a wet sponge, and let it remain open until 
dry, when all the creases will be gone. 

If the tip gets out of shape, put it on the tip 
block and iron it, having a cloth between the 
iron and the hat. 



HOW FUR HATS ARE :MADE. 

, Fur felt hats are made from the furs of vari- 
ous animals, the principal ones of which are the 
Beaver, Nutria or Coypou, Muskrat, Otter, Hare 
and Rabbit. 

Beaver is the most valuable fur, but very few 
hats are made from it entirely. Next in value is 
the Nutria, afterwards the Otter, Muskrat, Hare 
and Rabbit respectively. 

The quality of the fur varies according to the 
location on the body of the animal ; on such wa- 
ter animals as the Beaver, Nutria, Muskrat and 
Otter, the belly contains the finest fur; while 
from the backs of such land animals as the hare 
and rabbit the best fur is obtained. 

The skins of these animals are stretched and 
dried, and the dirt thoroughly brushed out of 
them. 

Some of these skins are "carroted," that is to 
say, they are laid on a table fur uppermost, and 
15 



a nitrate of mercury solution, consisting of quick- 
silver, nitric acid and water, is applied with a 
stiff brush to the fur. 

The skins are then laid in pairs fur sides to- 
gether, and placed in a drying room until the de- 
sired effect is produced on the fur. 

The object of "carroting" is to hasten the pro- 
cess of shrinkage or felting ; some grades of fur 
cannot be made into a hat without first being 
"carroted." 

After the skins have been "carroted," they are 
brushed to make the hair lie all in one direction, 
after which they are put through a machine, 
wdiich is so adjusted that it pulls out all the long- 
coarse hairs, leaving the finer hair attached to 
the skin. 

In the next process the skins are placed in the 
fur cutting machine, which shaves the skin from 
the hair, leaving the fur all intact, and in that 
condition is carried onto a revolving apron, the 
skin in the meantime having fallen below in 
small shreds. 

Very few, however, of the hat manufacturers 
cut the skins, as they prefer to purchase the fur 
from the hatters' furriers. 

The fur is of various grades and packed in 
five pound bags and marked accordingly. Thus 
we have the W. C. Beaver (white carrot), Tri- 
ple Ring Prime Back ( B. H. B.), Best Hare 
IG 



Backs (B. C B.), Best Coney Backs (C. B.), 
Coney Backs, and other grades. 

Experience has demonstrated that the best re- 
sults are obtained by mixing various grades ; if 
all carroted fur (stock) were used, a soft open 
felt would be the result, therefore raw stock (un- 
carroted) is mixed with carroted stock, in vari- 
ous proportions and grades, to make the desired 
quality of felt. 

To make felt that is generally used in hats that 
retail at five dollars pnr ifinnnw and upwards, 
Beaver and Nutria are mixed with Hare in right 
proportions ; while for the cheaper grades of 
hats a mixture of Hare, Coney Backs and Filling 
(ground roundings and small pieces) are used. 

On account of the high price of Nutria, it can- 
not be mixed with Hare Backs or other grades 
to make up into hats that sell to the retailer at 
fifteen dollars per dozen, although only a short 
time ago I saw a retail salesman offer a customer 
a soft hat (Nutria color) for $2.25, declaring it 
was clear belly Nutria. 

After the fur is cut, as previously explained, 
it is blown by means of a revolving brush into 
a long wooden box divided into six or more com- 
partments : this box has revolving aprons ingen- 
iously arranged, so that the fur is automatically 
and correctly graded ; as the fur travels along 
with this apron, the pieces clotted with blood 
17 



(which are called dags) and small pieces of skin 
fall by gravity into the first compartment ; the 
long thick hairs are carried and drop into the 
next compartment, and so on, until the last one 
is reached. By this operation all of the fur h-:^s 
been graded according to quality, the last being 
the best and finest grade. 

In order for the manufacturer to get at the 
cost of each lot of hats he is making, he figures 
up the price of each mixing. Suppose he takes 
five pounds of this, ten pounds of the other, and 
fifteen pounds of another kind and mixes them 
altogether, thus making a thirty pound "mix- 
ing." He figures out the cost of each grade and 
adds them together, divides the number of 
pounds into the total cost, and the result is a 
net cost per pound ; by this means the manufact- 
urer can tell approximately what each hat will 
cost him, and vv'ill therefore put in as good a 
stock as possible for the price at which the hats 
are to be sold. 

The mixing is done by a process of blowing, 
so that each fibre of each grade is thoroughly 
blown into and twined and intertwined, with the 
fibres of all the grades, thus making an abso- 
lutely uniform quality. 

The fur is now ready to be made up into felt, 
and supposing it is desired to make a four ounce 
hat, the plan would be as follows : the operator 
18 



has a box containing' twelve compartments, and 
into each compartment he puts four ounces of 
the fur, thus having a correctly divided material 
for one dozen hats, which is now ready for the 
"Former." 

The "Fur Former" is a machine into which 
the fur is put, and by a mechanical arrangement 
forms it into the shape of a cone preparatory to 
being made into felt ; this is done as follows : at 
the front of the machine is a revolving feed 
apron, which connects with a four sided box, at 
the end of which is a cylinder-shaped chamber 
with doors, inside of which there is a revolving 
table, which carries a perforated copper cone, on 
which the body is formed : to this is connected 
an exhaust fan or blower to draw the fur onto 
the cone. 

A feeder stands at the revolving a])ron with a 
box containing one dozen hats, and an(^ther oper- 
ator stands at the opposite end and places the 
cone on the revolving table and closes the door 
of the cylinder chamber. The feeder places on 
the revolving apron the stock for one hat, which 
is carried through the four-sided box into the 
cylinder chamber, w^here, by the action of the 
suction fan, the fur is drawn all around the per- 
forated copper cone and is held there in close 
contact by the forced suction ; the operaor then 
opens the doors and throws a wet cloth on the 
19 



now fur covered cone and immediately wraps a 
second cloth around it, and puts a funnel-shaped 
tin cover over it, then dips the cone, fur, etc., 
into hot water, where they remain for about one 
minute ; while this is being done a second opera- 
tor places another cone on the revolving table, 
and the same process is repeated. 

When the operator takes the cone, fur, etc., 
out of the water, he places it on a bench, removes 
the tin cover and cloths, inverts the cone, loosens 
the edges of the fur, and the newly formed hat 
falls on the bench like a wet bag. 

Another operator, called the Hardener, now 
takes it in hand and squeezes out the water, opens 
it out flat, and taking several of them together, 
rolls and unrolls them many times in woolen 
cloths to harden or "fix" them ; in case there are 
any thin ])laces he covers them with additional 
fur ; they are now ready for the sizer. 

If they are intended to be sized by hand 
(as all finer grades generally are) the sizer 
takes three hats at a time to the sizing kettle, 
which consists of a trough, around which are 
several benches sloping towards it ; the kettle is 
filled with hot water acidulated. The sizer takes 
the three hats and spreads them out flat on a 
cloth, one on top of each other ; he then sprinkles 
hot water over them, and makes them into a roll 
covered with the cloth ; he rolls them and un- 
20 



folds them many times or until they have shrunk 
to about one-half their original size. 




FIRST SHAPE. THE FORMED BODY. 

This process has to be very carefully done, 
because if in the operation the edges (sides) get 
stuck, there will be a streak in the finished hat, 
21 



running from tip to brim, and known to the trade 
as a "lightning rod." 

When they have been manipulated until they 
are down to within two inches of the size re- 
quired, they are then dried, and shaved, either 
by hand or machine (machine has revolving 
knives, like a lawn mower), and again rolled up, 
this time, however, singly, and without any cloth. 
This is called second sizing, and leather or wood 
pads, called gloves, are used, as they make firmer 
felt. 

It is necessary for the body to be reduced to 
a certain measurement or size, and when this is 
accomplished the process is complete. 






THE SIZED BODY. 



The process of sizing by machinery is some- 
what different. The "forms" are rolled in cloth 
and taken by two men, who operate a machine 



called a "'starting machine," which contains rap- 
idly revolving rollers, and which is placed over 
a trough filled with hot water, and are folded 
and put through the rollers many times, until 
they are reduced a few inches each way ; after 
which thev are passed on to the sizers, who work 
on similar but smaller machines, where they are 
reduced or shrunk to the required size ; this is 
the plan adopted usually for the medium and low 
grade hats. 

Thus far the process is similar for both soft 
and stiff hats ; as the soft hats are heavier, how- 
ever, it is necessary that they have in them more 
"stock." 

The hat is now dried and is ready for stiffen- 
ing — and at this point the difference between the 
finishing of the soft and stiff hat begins. 

To-day the derby hats are stiffened with wine, 
or alcohol stiffening, wdiich is composed chiefly 
of shellac dissolved in alcohol. 

There are two stiffening machines, one for the 
brims and one for the crowns, each supplied with 
a revolving brush to put on the solution ; the 
brim is stift"ened on both sides, but the crown is 
only stiffened on what will be the inside when 
finished. 

The body is now dried, and in order to recover 
part of the alcohol used in the stiffening, the 
hat is put into an oven that has connections with 
23 



a condenser, and there subjected to steam heat. 
When dry the hat is thoroughly brushed, after- 
wards dipped in hot water containing a small 
amount of soda, then put in a vat of cold water 
containing a little acid. 

But up to this point the "body" is in the shape 
of a small cone, or, more properly speaking, fun- 
nel shaped. 

The next process is the "tip" (crown) stretch- 
ing. This is done by means of a machine having 
prongs, in shape something like the bended fin- 
gers of your right hand interlocking those of the 
left hand. As the machine is revolved by the 
operator the motion stretches or widens the top 
or crown, which has previously been dipped in 
hot water. 

The brim stretcher, in the next operation, 
works in a similar way, and turns out the brim, 
so that the "body" has now the rough appearance 
of a hat. 

Dyeing follows the above ; to-dav aniline col- 
ors are principally used, as vegetable dyes, with 
the exception of logwood, are almost out of date. 

This dyeing is done by means of a large wood- 
en vat having a steam coil in the bottom, to heat 
the prepared liquid. 

This process takes from two to six hours' 
duration, according to color desired, and from 
twelve to thirtv-six dozen are treated at one time. 
2-i 



After being dyed they are well washed, after 
which they are ready to be blocked. 

They are now taken to a "blocking" machine, 
and this is the first process that gives anything 
like a hat shape to the embryo hat. 

This machine is a very ingenious contrivance ; 
it has a large iron frame, in the center of which 
is a headpiece, composed of brass prongs, which 
expand and contract; it also contains "fingers" 
placed around the edge. 

The "blocker" adjusts his machine to the de- 
sired size, and after immersing the hats in hot 
water, takes out one at a time, and puts it on 
the machine ; he presses a lever, and the "fingers" 
grasp the edge of the brim and pulls it in a cir- 
cle ; by means of moving another lever the band, 
crown and brim of the hat are formed in one 
operation ; while in this position cold water is 
poured over the hat, after which the levers are 
released, the hat taken out, and thrown into cold 
water, to "set" ; it is then put in the hydro-ex- 
tractor, after which it is taken to the drying 
room. 

When it is taken out of the drying room, it is 
''squared up" (a stiffening solution applied to 
the inside of the crown with a brush), dried and 
steam blocked, that is to say, it is put on a wood 
block, the exact shape of which it is intended the 
hat to be when finished, and steam applied to 
2d 



shape it and flatten the brim. Afterwards it is 
singed by means of a gas flame, brushed with a 
revolving brush, and then put into an iron steam 
heated oven to soften, preparatory for the hy- 
draulic press. This press is strongly built of 
iron, with pump connections, and has a lever- 
locking appliance. 

The hat thus softened by heat is put into the 
mold, and a tin brim plate adjusted to the brim, 
then the press is closed and locked and the water 
turned on and kept under a pressure of about 500 
pounds for about two minutes, after which it is 
taken out, its surface is then free from wrinkles, 
and is ready for "finishing." 

This "finishing" process is sometimes done in 
two operations, as follows : the brim is sandpa- 
pered first on a "brimmer," and then "lured," 
after which the crown is finished on a lathe, 
which consists of an upright revolving spindle 
with an iron plate containing two upright pins 
for the block to fit on. 

The Finisher puts the hat on the block, and 
starts the lathe, holding a piece of sandpaper 
in each hand on the hat until it is smooth. He 
then "lures" it with a "lure" and grease, hold- 
ing the "lure" on a hot iron or heater, then press- 
ing it gently on the hat while it is revolving. He 
also uses the sandpaper and "lure" after the 

lathe has stopped. 

26 



The next process after finishing and exami- 
nation by the Foreman, is to round the brim to 
the desired width, which is done as follows : the 
hat is put on a machine which fits firmly on the 
inside near the brim ; a lever with a knife and 
gauge is passed around the brim and the uneven 
and superfluous width cut ofif. Some hats ( flex- 
ibles) are now "edge stififened," that is, a solu- 
tion of stiffening is put on the edge of the brim 
to strengthen it. 

The hats are now ready for the "curler." He 
puts it in a revolving plate, which heats the edge 
of the brim ready for the "edging up n:achine," 
wdiich turns over the Qdge and irons it down the 
same as is done by the shackle and shell, by 
hand ; they are then matriced, being first put on 
a hot baker to soften the brim.. 

The matrice ( which is an iron formed in two 
parts, to the exact shape the brim is intended to 
be) is put into a hydraulic matricing press, made 
especially for the brims, on which the hat is put, 
afterwards the press is closed and pressure ap- 
plied. 

The "curler" then takes the matrice contain- 
ing the hat from the press and removes it by tak- 
ing one-half off at a time ; this has to be done 
before it is quite cold, otherwise the shape will 
be spoiled. 

The next operator takes it, and with the curl 
27 



planes and sandpaper makes the edges of the 
curl smooth and of the required width. 

The hats are now ready to be trimmed ; this 
consists of sewing- on the band and binding and 
putting in the sweat leather. 

Bindings on stiff hats to-day are mostly what 
are called ''reversed," that is, they are put on 
the upper brim first by machine or hand, selvage 
edge outward, turned over and stitched by hand ; 
they are then brushed with a revolving soft 
brush, ''lured," and any small defects remedied, 
after which they are wrapped in tissue paper 
and packed in boxes. 

Soft hats are stiffened with a water solution 
of shellac (which is in lieu of the alcohol solu- 
tion used on stiff hats). They are dipped in this 
solution brim downwards as far as the intended 
width of the brim, then passed through iron roll- 
ers, taken out and dved like stiff" hats. 



SOFT HATS. 



There is a difference in the treatment of soft 
and stiff hats after they are dyed. 

The better grades of soft hats are blocked by 

hand in hot water by pulling them over a wood 

block, after which a cord is put around the band, 

and the brim pulled flat ; then thev are dried, and 

28 



taken to the pouncing- room, where they are 
passed through a machine containing small roll- 
ers covered with fine sandpaper, which takes off 
the coarse hairs, making them short and close, 
like cloth ; this operation is confined to the brim. 

The crown is "pounced" on a round block re- 
volving on a lathe, and "squared" up, that is to 
say, a little stiffening of gum is applied to one 
side of the crown, that'fSmt which is to be the 
inside when the hat is finished. 

They are then taken to the drying room, after 
which they are ready for finishing. 

The finisher takes the hat and pulls it over the 
proper size block, and ties a cord around the bot- 
tom to hold it to its place, and it is then ironed 
either by hand or machine. 

The operation of the ironing machine is as 
follows : the operator places the block on the ma- 
chine, which revolves in a horizontal position, 
after which he moistens the hat with a wet brush, 
and then applies the hot iron — which is heated by 
gas and operated by a lever and weights — which 
travels automatically over the hat. 

The hat is then removed from the machine and 
"pounced" either by hand or lathe, and "lured." 
The brim is pressed out with a hot shell and 
"pounced" — using fine sandpaper for the pur- 
pose. This is done by hand or machine, then 
"lured," when it is readv to be "curled." 
29 



"Curling" is turning- the tdgt over ; this is also 
done by hand or machine ; the machine for the 
purpose has a round-edged wheel and guide, a 




LL'KI.ING SHACKLE. 

part of the machine being heated. The operator 
wets the edge of the brim and passes it through 
the machine as though he was binding it. When 
"curling" is performed by hand it is usually 
done with a hot shackle, similar to ironing. 



OI.TMHIA STS'LE, liOSS RAW EDGE. 



Soft hats, instead of being "curled." are some- 
times steamed over a flange or wood niould, 
30 



which is made the exact shape the brim is intend- 
ed to be. 

The hats with high curled brims, also those 
turned up ver}- much benmd and down in front, 
and crushers, are shaped in this manner ; this 
process is called steam flanging. 

Hats that are "curled" have to be "i'langed," 
that is, put on a wood form, which has the shape 
of the brim desired. They are put on this form, 
brim uppermost, when it (the brim) is moulded 
into shape, by means of a hot bag of sand, which 
is hung by a rope and pulley and which is made 
to rise and fall upon the brim ; this operation 
gives it a close finish. 

Generally, soft hats are "flanged" after being 
trimmed ; then they are taken to the packer, who 
remedies any little defects, and softens or mel- 
lows up the hat if it is too stifif, b}- squeezing it 
and shaking the brim. Nearlv all fine grades 
are mellowed in this manner. 



HAT CURLS. 

The "curl" is the edge of the brim turned up 
or over ; a flat, straight brim has no "curl" ; a 
soft hat with the edge of the brim rolled over is 
called a "boss raw-edge curl" if unbound ; if 
the brim is not set up the w^ord "boss" defines 
the "curl." 

31 



A stiff hat curl rounded at the edge is called 
a ''roll curl," while a curl which turns at a 
straight angle is called a ''D'Orsay curl," and 
measures half an inch, three-quarters, etc. ; and 
thus you say "half-inch D'Orsay," or "three- 
quarter roll," as the case may be. 

Measure the "curl" with the slide rule at the 
side, the width of the turn is the size of the curl. 



LIGHT-COLORED SOFT HATS. 

Soft hats in light colors having soiled or blem- 
ished places on them can be made to look fresh 
by touching over the places with a piece of num- 
ber seven nought sandpaper, until the soiled place 
is removed, as follows : 

First rub a little chalk over the soiled spot and 
then take a piece of the sandpaper about three by 
four inches in size and use it on the brim, and 
brush and tap with brush handle if any chalk re- 
mains ; repeat the operation if necessary. 

If the soiled place is on the crown, place the 
hat on a block smaller than itself ; or in lieu of a 
block hold a folded piece of tissue paper to the 
place on the inside, then use chalk and sandpaper 
as above mentioned. 

Sandpapering light-colored hats gives a new 
lustre to them. 



32 



SOFT HATS HAVING CREASE MARKS. 

In the case of a soft hat having a deep mark 
or crease, caused by pacing or otherwise, insert 
the stretch block, and where it is most dented 
pack with tissue paper, until it looks smooth ; 
then wet the place over with a clean, wet sponge, 
drawing the way of the nap, then let it dry and 
it will be all right. 

Do not use the same sponge for light hats that 
has been used for black ones. 

If the marks on the hats from being packed 
are only slight, they may be removed by wetting 
your thumb and rubbing on the line. 



GREASE SPOTS. 



If the soiled place is grease, get a little benzine 
in a tin, or cup, and with a piece of cloth rub it 
on the grease spot. If the grease is on the brim 
you must moisten it all over with the cloth dip- 
ped in the benzine, otherwise it will stain the hat ; 
then let dry in a warm place. 

The same process applies to crown, also to 
worn hats. In using the benzine Jare must be 
taken to keep it away from a flame of any kind. 



33 



PUTTING A NEW LUSTRE ON STIFF 
HATS. 

For blacks, put them on the electric Hat Clean- 
ing Machine (see cover), and apply brush to re- 




BRUSH TO USE WITH CLEANING MACHINE. 
34 



move dust ; afterwards take a piece of dark cloth 
about eighteen inches long by six wide, hold op- 
posite end in each hand ; begin operation at band, 
and work to crown with light pressure. 

For black hats the cloth may be slightly 
greased. 

For Hght-colored hats take a clean, wet sponge, 
and after removing dust with a brush, hold the 
hat in the left hand, and go over it evenly with 
a movement drawing towards you, beginning at 
the band and working upwards to the center of 
the tip ; then put it on the electric Hat Cleaning 
Machine to dry ; when dry, take a clean cloth and 
use as for blacks. 

If you do not have a machine, put the hat on 
a rack, or shelf, until dry, then smooth it over 
with tissue paper, or a piece of clean muslin ; 
adopt this plan on the blacks in case you have 
no machine. 

Treat the brim in the same way with the wet 
sponge, then put on the Electric Hat Cleaning 
Machine to dry, or in lieu thereof put on a shelf. 



CREASING SOFT HATS. 

Hold the hat in the left hand crown upper- 
most, front facing you, finger inside, thumb out- 
side ; put vour right hand in the same position in- 
35 



side at the rear ; press outward with the end of 
the fingers of both hands, and you can then 
crease the hat in a straight hue from point to 
point. 

When you can do this quickly before a cus- 
tomer it pleases him immensely, and he at once 
desires to know how it is done, and will of course 
appreciate the favor if you show him how to do 
it, and will no doubt inform his friends, stating 
he has learned it from vou. 



TO DENT A HAT. 

To dent a hat make a circular movement with 
the end of your finger in the place you desire the 
dent ; if it is to be brought to a point, lay the hat 
on its brim on the counter and with both hands 
pinch up to point desired. 



TO TELESCOPE. 

To telescope, run down the crown to height 
desired, put the hat, crown downwards, on the 
counter and place your hand inside ; begin in 
center with a circular movement, and press 
crown fiat to counter. You can make this crease 
still neater by putting the stretch block inside 
the inner fold and expanding it until the folds 



are close together. 



36 



HAT SIZE— TO ASCERTAIN.. 

Comparatively few people understand how the 
size number of a hat — say seven, or seven and 
one-eighth — is obtained. 

We follow the English method, which is as 
follows : The hat is measured from front to rear 
inside, which for illustration we will say is seven 
and three-quarters inches ; then measured from 
side to side, which, suppose, is six and one-quar- 
ter inches ; the two lengths are added together, 




;lide rule. 



making fourteen inches, which, if divided by 
two, makes seven inches ; this would be the size 
of the hat according to English measurement. 

This plan is adopted in the United States, with 
the exception that one-eighth (or one size) is 
added ; therefore, for this country, the hat men- 
tioned above would be seven and one-eighth. 

If you will notice, all imported hats (unless 
specially marked) are one size larger — according 
to the size marked — than ours. 



This rule applies to all hats. ^Measure the 
length from front to rear inside where the head 




MEASURING RING. 

fits, then the width, from side to side, and add 
the two together, and divide by two, then add 
one size. 

You will understand that hats can also be 
measured with the brass rings sold for that pur- 
pose (see cut). 



WEIGH OUTS. 

In the manufacture of hats the term "Weigh 
Out" is ver}' common. For example, I cite the 
following : before the process of forming is be- 
gun, the material is "weighed out." and some- 
38 



times this is "light" or scant weight; and thus 
has originated the phrase in the trade to define 
a man about whom you want to speak sHghtingly, 
and you say, "He was weighed out Hght." 

It is also applied when a workman gets a doz- 
en or more hats to work on, and the term is used 
that "he has got his weigh out," instead of the 
usual term that he has "received work," although 
the hats may not have been weighed at all. 

Another feature regarding hat operatives is 
that in case his wages amount to twenty dollars 
and thirty cents, he is paid the twenty dollars, 
The thirty cents goes over until the following 
week. Whenever an operative receives his "odd 
change" he has been either discharged or is leav- 
ino- on his own accord. 




ROUND CROWN DERBY FLATISH SET. 

That like cut is flatish set ; brim can be set a 
little higher, then it would be called medium set ; 
raised still higher, it would be called well set 

39 



TO SET AND FLATTEN THE BRIM OF A 
DERBY. 

You can set up the brim of a derby by heating 
and putting it on the setting board and working 
up the sides with your fingers. 

You can flatten the brim of a derby b^• heat- 
ing it and putting half of the brim on the coun- 



FOOT TOLICKER. ilC>Sl<i<l <i0VV7l) 

ter or bench, using foot toHcker ; then turn the 
other half around and repeat the operation ; also 
working it a little into the shape desired with 
your fingers, keeping it warm all the time. 



TO EYELET A HAT. 

To eyelet a hat, measure the distance from the 
brim to where you want the eyelet, then with a 
tapering three-cornered file punch a hole through 
and ream with the file until it is large enough to 
squeeze the eyelet in ; there are punches and cut- 
ters sold for this purpose. 
40 



STRETCHING SOFT HATS. 

Stretching soft hats can he clone with the 
stretch block ; in doing this make it a loose fit, 
so it will contract a little afterwards. 



STRETCHING DERBY. 

Derbys must be heated before attempting to 
stretch them, and even then they cannot be 
stretched as mnch as soft hats. 



STRETCHING SILK HAT. 

Silk hats can be stretched but very little, and 
it takes some skill to do it. They must be heated 
like derbys. 

To take the curl or set out of a soft hat, or 
turn down the front, dampen it, and pass a hot 
iron over it, or hold it to anything warm, and pull 
and set it as vou desire. 



CONFORMING HATS. 

The use of the conformateur is to change the 
shape of the hat oval at the band, in order to fit 
the head of a customer, and yet change other con- 
ditions of the hat as little as possible. 
41 



The difficulty in conformating is to keep the 
brim smooth and in its original shape. 

The beginner should be very cautious not to 
soften or heat the hat too much. 




CONFORMATEUK TO TAKE SHAPE OF HEAD. 



Very long: or very wide heads cause trouble 



in conforming. 



In the first place, use the head piece as per cut, 

and put a piece of paper behind the spring in 

the lid ; then put the head piece on customer's 

head, and see that all the pins are in line; bring 

42 



down the lid ; take the scissors, and cut out on 
the line of the pin holes, and you have the im- 
pression. 

Do not tell the customer that this is the shape 
of his head, because it is not, although fully 
ninety per cent, of the retail salesmen will assert 
to the contrary. 



SHAPE OF A CUSTOMER'S HEAD. 

If you desire to show the customer the exact 
shape of his head, put the formillion — after being 
set to his conform^ — on a piece of paper and 
draw a pencil line around it ; cut it out and you 
have his head shape. 

You can reduce this with a compass if de- 
sired. 

Next put this paper impression on the two 
pins of the formilion, or shaping block ; have the 
screws all loose and the keys open ; press the 
keys carefully up to the paper impression, and 
tighten the screws. 

If you desire the size "full," put the brass ring 
over the keys ; then take the hat and heat the 
brim, especially that part near the sweat leather, 
being careful not to heat it too much ; take a 
handful of packing tissue, or a pad about two 
inches thick stuffed with cotton (if made to fit a 
seven and three-eights hat it will fill any size) 
and put it into the crown of the hat. 




FORMILLION TO SHAPE THE HAT ON. 

The object of this is to prevent the heat from 
softening the crown, and thus retain its shape. 
Having heated the brim of the hat over a stove, 
radiator, or a gas jet burning under a sheet of 
tin, put it on the formilHon, and with the foot 
toHcker press the upper brim well all around to 
free it from wrinkles. Remove it from the for- 
milHon before it gets quite cold ; turn the brim 
uppermost, and with your fingers and thumb 
work the brim into as nearly as possible to the 
same shape it was before it was conformed ; 
sometimes you will have to re-heat it to do this ; 
experience will enable you to perform this work 
quickly. 

Silk hats are conformed in the same way, only 
more heat is used, as it requires a greater amount 
of heat to soften a silk hat than it does a derby. 
44 



DO NOT GET THE SILK HAT TOO SOFT. 

In operating on a silk hat, be very careful not 
to get it too soft, and when the foot tolicker is 
used on one, always press in the direction the 
nap lies, because if you rub both ways the silk 
will be ruffled up. 

In finishing the silk hat brush it straight and 
smooth with a hot brim iron. 

If you do not have a conformateur you should 
have a long and a short set stick (Mast & Co.). 

When the hat needs to be lengthened put some 
tissue paper in the crown and heat the brim and 
put in the long set stick, and screw out to de- 
sired length ; work the brim with your fingers to 
make it even, and if necessary put the ends on 
the bench or set board and press the foot tol- 
icker. 

If the hat has to be made wide, proceed as 
above and put the short set stick in the sides, and 
screw to width required ; then fix brim smooth as 
above. 

In such cases as these, you will have to judge 
the form of vour customer's head with vour eve. 



HOW TO TELL GRADES. 

The only way to learn to know the qualities of 
hats is by comparison. Compare hats of which 
vou know the price w^ith other hats of the same 
45 



t ^e. Note the trimming, bands and sweat leath- 
ers and the work in the trimming, see whether 
it is fine and neat or otherwise. 

Few stiff hats below $24.00 per dozen have 
"hand whipped leathers" or imported goat or calf 
leathers. Note the ends of the bow of the band, 
this is where you can best judge the quality. 
Good bands are thick (not necessarily coarse- 
ribbed) and silky. Poor bands are thin and 
open, and by holding them sideways you can see 
the cotton filling through the silk. Good bands 
have even edges, and look clear ; poor bands are 
of uneven edges and look streaky. 

The gold dies on the leathers indicate a better 
grade than silver ones. The gold or woven 
stickers for the tip are of better value than the 
silver ones. A good braid bow at the seam of 
the leather adds to the appearance of the hat. 

The better grades of stiff' hats are close on 
the nap and not ''slacked'' or "lured" so much 
as the coarser grades, which are longer on the 
nap and ''lured" with grease to make them shine. 
Look carefully at the stiff' hats to see if there 
are any signs of stiffening on the surface, this 
show^s on a hat sometimes like slickness on a 
w^orn coat. Test the place by tapping it with 
your finger nail. If it feels hard or looks glassy 
it is the stiffening near the surface, and conse- 
quentlv defective. Also trv the crowns bv 
46 



squeezing them slightly. If they feel hard and 
brittle they are liable to break ; also hold the front 
of the brim in your hand and shake it a little, 
and you can then judge if it is pliable enough 
not to break by handling, as some cheap grades 
are very apt to do. In a derby hat I would give 
preference to one with a higher grade of trim- 
ming and a lower grade of stock, than the re- 
verse. 



SOFT HATS. 

Only by experience in comparisons can you 
get to know the grades of the hat itself. The 
finest soft hats are like a piece of buckskin, so 
close and tough that you can hardly distinguish 
the hairs of which they are composed. They 
are usually finished dull no glaze or shine, while 
the coarser grades are softer with a flannely feel 
and you can notice the coarser hair or fur of 
their composition. 

Some grades of fifteen and eighteen dollars 
per dozen are filled with short stock and pounced 
close on machines so as to give them a fine look 
while they are new, and this sometimes deceives 
the inexperienced ; but they soon come to pieces 
in the w^ear, not being as durable even as the 
longer stock hats at the same price. 

47 



Constantly compare hats of different makes of 
the same price, and observe the different points 
of felt, trimmings and color, the style, how the 
brim is set, good curls or otherwise, if sweat 
leathers are well stitched or giggered, and how 
the trimmings, are put on. 

Look inside the hat. A fine hat is short and 
clothy inside, and looks as though it had not been 
finished ; while some of the coarser stock are 
either well finished inside by pouncing — which 
you can easily tell — or contain long hairs. 

All hats, soft or stiff, should be heavier or 
thicker in the brim than on the crown. Soft hats 
with thin brims will not give the customer sat- 
isfaction in wear, for soft hats of $15.00 per 
dozen and less cannot be made in wide brims so 
as to hold their shape, especially if intended for 
the South or West, where the wearer uses a hat 
more roughly than in the East. 

The sweat leathers sold as imported leathers 
are much thicker and closer than those called 
domestic, and cost nearly double the price. 

To tell the grade of a band unravel it and no- 
tice how thick the silk is and of what the filling 
is composed ; and if the band is soft, flimsy, or 
firmly woven. All these details go into the cost 
of a hat, and consequently determines the qual- 
ity. 

48 



All hats when received at the store should be 
examined for defects, and to see if they are like 
samples from which they were ordered. 

When ordering hats by sample note the differ- 
ent points of the sample and try to impress theni 
in your mind. This requires practice, but after a 
while you will become expert, and it is one of 
the best means of getting a knowledge of the 
points and grades of hats. 

If you have the opportunity to carefully note 
how a hat, which you have sold or worn yourself 
looks after it has been worn a month or two, 
you will learn something useful from it. 

There are many hat makers who would learn 
something about their own make of hats by 
adopting this plan. 



KNOCK DOWNS. 

Knock Downs are hats which are defective 
and are thrown out for that reason. The first 
branch of the business in which "Knock Downs" 
are detected is after they are sized. It is then 
too late for them to be remedied, and are conse- 
quently thrown out, mostly for having thin or 
uneven places in them, or ''dags" caused by the 
oversight on the part of the workmen. 

The next most prolific source in which "Knock 
Downs" are discovered is where thev are exam- 
49 



ined after finishing. The defects found here may 
be as follows in stiff hats — for stiffening shown 
on surface — brims too thin or too soft — ^dags or 
''lightning rods," etc., in soft hats, dags, "light- 
ning rods," weak places, or color, etc. 

Seconds are mostly ''Knock Downs," or hats 
which were intended for a certain grade and 
failed to come up to the standard. These are 
usually trimmed up cheaper and sold at a dis- 
count. 



CASSIMERES. 



Cassimeres are hats made of felt in the shape 
of a silk hat. 

Up to the branch of finishing they are made 
in a similar manner as a stiff hat or derby ; on 
account, however, of being wider in the tip than 
at the band, they are finished on a block com- 
posed of three pieces ; the reason this block is 
made in three pieces is to permit it being taken 
apart so it can be removed from the inside of 
the hat after it is finished. 

These hats are covered with a cloth and ironed 
by hand, then sandpapered, and lured like a 
derby. 

They are curled by hand with shackle and 
iron, and set on the setting board. 

50 



There is a tip inserted and ironed to the in 
side of the crown to strengthen it. 



WOOL HATS. 



Wool hats are now made ahiiost entirely by 
machinery as follows : after the wool is washed 
and dried, it is carded on a carding machine. 

In ''forming" these hats the wool is fed into 
a carding machine, coming out at the opposite 
end in laps about eight inches wide, and is wrap- 
ped round a double cone, which revolves on rol- 
lers. 

In order that two hats may be formed at one 
time, the operator — as soon as sufficient quantity 
of wool has accumulated on the rollers — divides 
the double cone form with shears, and slips the 
two forms from the rollers ; they are then taken 
to a machine where they are hardened by the 
operation of steam, and sized, generally in large 
lots of twenty-four dozen and upwards in full- 
ing machines, or "bumpers." 

The subsequent processes are somewhat sim- 
ilar to that used on fur hats. • 

They are finished by sandpaper and "lured," 
much coarser sandpaper being used that what is 
needed on fur hats. 

51 



PANAMA HATS. 

Panama hats are not made in the United 
States ; they are plaited by the natives of South 
America, Cuba, Philippines, and Mexico, from 
the fibres of a plant which grows in those coun- 
tries. 

The name is derived from the port of Panama, 
which was about the first place from which this 
class of hats was received. 

Panama hats are somewhat of an "unknown 
quantity," as their weaves and quality are so 
varied ; the South American who understands the 
hat business has taken advantage of our lack of 
knowledge, and palmed off onto us so-called 
Panama hats at about three times their actual 
value ; this is the direct result of the average 
North American thinking he knows the other 
man's game better than the other man himself. 

I have handled thousands of Panama hats, and 
I assert that the closely woven cream ones are 
the best, the finer the fibre the better the hat, yet 
I have had hatmen tell me otherwise ;. some swear 
by the heavy thick round South American fibre, 
which are good wearing hats, but not the most 
expensive. 

There is also the hat w^ith an inserted top ; you 

will notice on the inside a ring of raw ends 

around the tip ; this style of hat is usually lined 

to cover up those ends. 
52 



Some people like these hats because they are 
soft and open, but they are not durable and lose 
color. 

There is another kind of heavy coarse fibre 
hat of a light tan color ; these hats turn red on 
being worn in a hot climate, and up to date no 
means have been found to re-bleach them. It is 
difficult to understand why people wear this kind 
of a hat, as they are not sightly and are warmer 
than a light fur hat. 



WHAT TO DO TO PANAMAS. 

For new hats, take a clean wet sponge, and 
dampen the hat where you wish to change it, as, 
for example, the brim, then by working it with 
your fingers you can put it into almost any shape ; 
when the desired shape has been formed, lay it 




ALPINE SHAPE PANAMA. 

53 



carefully away until it is dry. To make it con- 
form to the shape you desire, it can be pinned 
to a board or box. 

If the hat to be changed is like the cut, a 
square crown can be made by wetting it inside 
and putting in a stretch block, and expanding 
the crown, after which four dents can be made 
in it, or telescoped. 

To roll a hat having a flatish brim, dampen it 
and fix it in the shape desired, then let it dry. 

To clean the Panama that is a little soiled, go 
over it evenly with a clean wet sponge dipped 
in flour of sulphur, let it dry, and brush ofif with 
dry brush. 

To renovate an old Panama it is necessary to 
have the blocks and tools of a renovator (see 
cover) ; take a soiled Panama, and first measure 
it to ascertain size, using size ring (see cut), 
then note its style, or what it is intended to be, 
and width of band ; take ofif the trimming ; with 
a brush wash the hat in warm water and soap, 
rinse, and put it in an earthern jar or zinc trough 
(not tin), containing ten gallons or more of cold 
water, into w^hich dissolve one pound of oxalic 
acid ; let it remain about three hours, then take 
out and rinse, and dry, after which it is ready 
to be blocked. 

Blocking should be done by the aid of steam; 
get the size of block required, and put on it a 
54 



piece of white tissue paper ; then puU the hat over 
it and put a cord round it to keep it tight; go 
over the hat with a wet sponge ; afterwards with 
a sohition of white ghie dissolved in water to 
about the consistency of thick cream, then take 
a wet sponge and dip it in flour of sulphur, and 
rub it all over the crown, after which put to dry ; 
when nearly dry brush the sulphur off the hat 
and remove from block; make creases if they are 
required. 

If you have flanges, put the brim on the flange 
required, and cover with a damp cloth, and iron 
until it is smooth and in proper shape. 

If you do not have a flange, use a band block, 
and iron the brim smooth on the bench under a 
cloth ; then turn the edge to the shape wanted 
with the iron, or shackle ; dampen the brim with 
a wet sponge dipped in flour of sulphur ; set the 
brim in required shape on set board, or other 
board ; let it dry and then brush. 



BRAIDED STRAW HATS. 

There are many different kinds of braids used 
to make the braided straw hats ; some braids are 
made in China and Japan, others in England and 
France. 

The manufacturer purchases these braids from 
some or all of the above sources, and prepares 
55 



them for bleaching by sewing them together as 
follows : The braid is dampened for a few hours, 
after which a few braids are sewn together by 
hand, then by a machine ; the flat piece intended 
for the crown is made a little larger than the tip 
of the block for which it is intended ; it is then 
bent over at the edges and the sides sewn ; after 
which it is bent at right angle and the brim sewn 
flat — always in a circle ; afterwards they are 
dipped in a solution of glue to stiffen them, the 
surplus being wiped off with a brush ; they are 
then dried, and blocked by steam on plaster of 
Paris or wooden blocks, and ironed over a cloth ; 
some are flanged on a spelter flange in a press. 

Nearly all women's and children's hats are 
pressed in hydraulic presses. 

The work of making these braided straw hats 
is performed almost exclusivelv by women. 




5() 



TO CLEAN YACHTS AND OTHER 
STRAWS. 

To clean yacl.ts and other straw hats in a 
small way, have two tumblers of clean water, and 
into one put two large teaspoonfuls of hyposul- 
phite of soda, and into the other two large tea- 
spoonfuls of oxalic acid. Have a bucket of clean 
water, a small box of flour of sulphur, two small 
sponges, a nail brush, a piece of thin tin about 
four by five inches bent a little to conform to the 
side of a hat. 

Take the hat, and with one of the sponges, 
dipped in water, clean off as much of the dirt 
as possible ; then use the brush and water, using 
a little Ivory soap if necessary. 

Dip one of the sponges in the hyposulphite of 
soda and go over the hat with it ; take the other 
sponge and dip it in the oxalic acid, and rub this 
over the hat, beginning on the brim ; take the 
piece of tin and hold it against the side of the 
hat on the upper side of the brim to prevent the 
oxalic acid touching the band of the hat, as the 
acid would discolor it. When applying the acid 
dip the sponge in the sulphur and rub a little on 
the hat, as this has the effect of filling in the dark 
places between the weave or braid. 

When this is done put it on the Electric Hat 



Cleaning Machine to dry, which will be done in 
about forty seconds ; if you do not have a hat 
cleaning machine, use heat for drying the hat, 
and when dry brush with a dry brush, and it is 
then finished. 



BRIM OUT OF shape:. 

If the brim of the hat is out of shape, proceed 
as follows : if the brim is flat, lay it on the bench, 
and wet the brim ; put a clean piece of cotton 
drill on the brim and iron it with a hot iron ; if 
the hat is broken stitch the place and put a little 
of the white glue solution on the break, then 
cover it with a cloth and iron over it ; if it is in 
the crown, put a wad of paper inside, holding it 
up with one hand, while you use the iron with 
the other, having a cloth between the iron and 
the hat. 

If the break is in the brim, put the hat on the 
bench and iron it, wetting the brim, but first cov- 
ering it with a cloth. 



BUYING HATS. 

In buying hats beware of freak styles and odd 
colors. When these are shown to you make a 
mental calculation of how manv of them vou 

58 



could sell, and reflect as to what you would do 
with the balance. 

Go lightly on narrow-brimmed hats, soft or 
stiff, as they are costly to remodel into salable 
styles when they once get out of date. 

High rolled brims in soft hats and very flat 
brims in derbys may be regarded as freakish, 
though there is a remedy for the latter style. 

Freakish bands can be changed if the added 
expense justifies it. 

Do not buy wide brimmed soft hats in cheap 
grades, except staples for country trade ; they do 
not hold their shape. 



CORK LINED HATS. 



Cork tissue is stuck inside by means of gutta 
percha tissue and applying a hot pad ; a sheet of 
thin plaited straw is pressed over a block, by 
steam or heat, held in place by a cord until the 
edge is fastened by a sticker put around it; it is 
trimmed up and put into a stiff hat. This is 
called straw lined. This was done ^twenty-five 
years ago. 



59 



TALKING HATS. 

When you are selling hats Talk Hats ; don't 
talk weather, theatre, or sports ; get the contents 
of this book into your head, and entertain your 
customer by telling him some of the various pro- 
cesses which the particular hat you are showing 
undergoes before it reaches the wearer ; it will 
interest him and impress him with the idea that 
you thoroughly understand your business, and he 
will probably ever afterwards have confidence in 
your judgment. 

Customer (trying on soft hat) — But what 
makes it so stiff? 

Salesman — Well, you see, we have only just 
received them from the factory, and they have 
not yet had time to mellow ; all hats are stiff 
right after being flanged ; it only just needs mel- 
lowing up a little (takes it in his hand, rolls the 
brim through his fingers several times) ; there, 
it is all right now ; just the newness, that's all. 

Customer — Price seems rather high for this 
hat. 

Salesman — Not when you notice the grade of 
stock that is in it ; see how fine and close it is 
felted ; no coarse hairs, and will wear like leather. 
See this sweat leather? It is imported goat, the 
best obtainable ; nothing like it for wearing, and 
60 



it gives a finish to the hat that cannot be ex- 
celled. 

Customer — Well, just put my old one in a 
bag. 



Customer (rushing in) says: Why, look at 
this derby. I only bought it three days ago from 
you, and it is all out of shape ; the hat must be 
"no good." 

Salesman' — Why, my dear sir, you have had 
this hat too near a stove, or laid it on the radia- 
tor ; you see, a stiff hat placed on anything hot 
v^ill become softened and lose its shape. The 
way they form the shape at the factories is while 
they are hot ; now, if you will bring it around 
and leave it I will have it put on the block for 
you, and it will be all right ; there is no defect 
in the hat. 



HATS IN THE WINDOW. 

Some salesmen have to be taught by experi- 
ence that light colored hats can be ruined by let- 
ting them remain too long a time in the window. 

Always put the light hats in the shady places, 
and turn them around so that the light will not 
strike them on the same place all the time. 



Stiff hat crowns should not rest on any hard 
substance in the window ; if they do they will get 
out of shape. 

To restore the shape of all such hats, you 
should have — for this and many other purposes 
— a round crown block, about six and three-quar- 
ter size, five inches deep ; put the hat on this 
block and hold it to a heated tin or stove and 
with the foot tolicker press the places back to 
the original shape, or as nearly as possible, which 
you can do very easily after trying a few times. 



C^:S*=fi- 



(i2 



Electric Adjustable 
4 Hat Cleaning 
\ Machine. 



INDISPENSABLE FOR 

EVERY HATTER OR 

HAT CLEANING 

ESTABLISHMENT. 

Used to Clean and Polish 
Silk Hats, Derbys, Soft and 
Straw Hats. 

The latter after being 
cleaned and put on the 
machine are ready to be 
worn after 30 seconds. 



Takes any size Hat rrom 
6 5-8 to 7 3-4. Can be 
used on any small (fan) 
motor 





Price of 
Machine, 
0. Net. 

IVIachine 
and 
IVIotor, 
$20. Net. 



WM. A. SGHNAUFFER, 

60 Broadway, NEW YORK. 



J. B. MAST & CO., 



Importers, Manufacturers and 
Dealers in 



HATTERS' GOODS 
HATTERS' TOOLS 

FOR ALL PURPOSES 

HAT TRIMMING 

OF ALL KINDS 

HAT FIXTURES 

FOR RETAILER OR JOBBER 



WRITE US FOR ANYTHING YOU NEED IN 
THE HAT LINE 



22 West Fourth Street, 
NEW YORK. 



ti^K 5 I SOD 



